What was once the center for Basque corsairs in the 17th century has now become an easy going beach resort town. Saint Jean de Luz sits on a gentle, crescent-shaped bay with fine sand and has an old town that is filled with colorful timbered Basque houses. It is the perfect place for families or couples who are seeking to relax in the sun while experiencing the charm of a gone-by era.
Although Saint Jean de Luz is located a mere 20 minutes away from Biarritz and both are famous beach resorts, the atmosphere in St Jean de Luz is completely different, somehow more relaxed. It is busy but not overcrowded, beautiful but not touristy. There are large beautiful Basque houses that form the old part of the town. Many of the buildings date back to the 17th century, a time when Saint Jean de Luz was one of the most important fishing ports of France.
The 17th century was also a time of transition in St Jean de Luz, when the main economic activity changed from fishing to what was essential piracy, when it became a base for Basque corsairs. These corsairs would hunt down France’s enemies at sea, looting and plundering them with the blessing of the French king. The corsairs were feared by both the British and the Spanish, who were the unwilling donors of the riches that were brought back to little Saint Jean de Luz. This was the golden age of the town and the wealth from that era can still be seen today.
It was also during the 17th century that the Treaty of the Pyrenees was signed on the nearby Pheasant Island, putting an end to a long conflict between France and Spain. As a result of that treaty, King Louis XIV of France married the King of Spain’s daughter, Maria Theresa, in St Jean de Luz in June 1660. This royal wedding is one of the most important political marriages in history. The fact that the marriage took place in St Jean de Luz is something that locals are still proud of today.
Top Things to See
The beach and its promenade
The main highlight of St Jean de Luz is, without a doubt, its beautiful beach and the promenade along it. The main beach is known simple as the “big beach” (“la grande plage” in French). It is a beautiful crescent-shaped beach that is protected from waves by three huge dikes, which makes it the perfect place for families with children. Furthermore, there are many activities and games that are hosted on shore.
Grand Hôtel & Casino La Pergola
This majestic building from 1909 was constructed in neo-romantic style. Today, it is still a 5 star hotel with spa facilities (Loreamar Thalasso Spa), maintaining the atmosphere of the Belle Epoque.
Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste
The Church of St. John Baptist was built between the 15th and 17th centuries and is considered to be one of the most representative churches of the Basque Country. Its austere exterior hides a large single nave that features a monumental baroque altarpiece from the 17th century. Typical from churches of the French Basque Country, wooden galleries stretch along the side and back walls of the building. These galleries were originally used by men attending mass, while women sat separately on the bottom level.
This church is especially important in St Jean de Luz because of the royal wedding of June 9th, 1660 between Louis XIV and Maria Theresa of Spain. The marriage is one of the most important political marriages in history and brought an end to a bitter war. Although it is not proven, it has been said that the door the couple passed through was later bricked-up to represent the closing of the troubles between France and Spain.
Place Louis XIV & Maison Louis XIV
The maison is just one of the many homes, located between the church and the port, that was funded by the wealth brought back by Basque corsairs. It was built in 1643 by Johan de Lohobiague, a shipowner and mayor of Saint Jean de Luz. The Maison Louis XIV is of course named in honor of Louis XIV, who stayed in the house for 40 days while he waited for his bride, Maria Theresa to arrive from Spain.
Port (Base of the Basque Corsairs)
Although difficult to imagine today, this was once one of France’s largest fishing ports. In the past, fishermen lived in the surroundings of the port, such as the street called Rue de la Republique. Today, that street is lined with seafood restaurants and, if you want to eat seafood or fish, it is a great place to check out.
Joanoenia, la Maison de l’Infante
A touch of Venice. Another elegant building from the 17th century is the Maison Joanoenia, which is named after the wealthy corsair, Joannot de Haraneder, who ordered its construction in 1640.
The Maison Joanoenia stands out in Saint Jean de Luz due to its style. Inspired by palaces in Venice, its facade is covered with pink bricks and adorned with golden stones. The building is located right next to the port and has a watch tower from which the owner could see the movement of the ships.
The Maison Joanoenia is also known as the House of the Infanta (“Maison de l’Infante” in French) because the Infanta of Spain, Maria Teresa stayed there when she came to Saint Jean de Luz in 1660 to get married to Louis XIV.
Ciboure & Fortress of Socoa
The bay on which St Jean de Luz sits is divided in two by the mouth of the Nivelle River. On the opposite side of St Jean de Luz, you find the town of Ciboure (“Ziburu” in Basque).
Ciboure is a nice town, smaller and quieter than its neighbor across the river. It also has a couple of sandy beaches. At the end of the bay stands the Fortress of Socoa (“Fort de Socoa” in French). The Fortress was originally built by Louis XIII at the beginning of the 17th century to protect the port of Ciboure from Spanish invaders. It was destroyed and rebuilt many times during the Spanish and British occupations. However, in some ways this adds to the buildings appeal, since it is responsible for the mixture of different military architecture styles.
Although the building itself is closed and is actually starting to fall apart, it still has a lot of charm. You can walk around it, admire the building itself and imagine the battles that took place there. It is also a great place to enjoy the nice views of the bay, the waves breaking against the Socoa dike and the Basque coast where flysch rock formations can be seen.
The Castle of Urtubie
This fortified castle still belongs to the same family since its construction in 1341. Additions and improvements were carried out in the XVI end XVIII centuries and the Castle of Urtubie is today an inviting historic Monument, furnished and decorated with refinement. The stones of Urtubie tell six centuries of history of the Basque Country. King Louis XI sejourned in the castle and Louis XIV raised the domain to the status of viscount in 1654. In the 19th century, Soult and Wellington were known to the castle during the napoleon wars.
Situated 3 kilometers from Saint-Jean-de Luz and 9 kilometers from Spain, the castle of Urtubie enjoys a privileged location, a charm and historic magnificence which are worth the visit or the long stay.
HOW TO GET FROM SAN SEBASTIÁN TO ST. JEAN DE LUZ
Take the Euskotren from San Sebastian to Hendaye. Then, right next to where Euskotren drops you off, you can take the French train (SNCF) from Hendaye to St Jean de Luz.
From San Sebastián to Hendaye
It takes around 45 minutes. It costs around 3.00€ each way
Company: Eusko Tren
Check prices and schedule at the following site: www.euskotren.es
Tentative Schedule for Saturdays and Sundays
From 07.20 to 21.20 every 30 minutes
From Hendaye to St Jean de Luz
It takes approx. 15 minutes. It costs around 4.00€ each way
Company: SNCF
Check prices and schedule at the following site: http://www.raileurope-world.com/
Usac San Sebastian 